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to FAQ. First published 2 November 1999
Alfa Romeo Spider
Frequently Asked Questions. FAQ!
Removing
the engine and transmission as a unit
Yea, it has been my experience that not only must the
shift lever be removed from the "stub", via loosening the pinch
bolt, but the stub must also be removed from the box, in order for the box
to readily clear the sheet-metal beneath the firewall.
- The stub does not HAVE to be removed (no doubt it
likely makes it a bit easier) - it does take some finesse with the
engine hoist to clear the top of the trans tunnel at the firewall
(helps to have two people too - I can remove an engine and trans by
myself but haven't yet figured out how to install one solo yet).
- Move the engine hoist strap from the middle studs on
the head to the second set - move forward one place - this helps tilt
the engine and trans to clear the tunnel.
- If you don't remove "stub" - Tape (duct
tape) circular covers in place around the "stub" or they
will fall off and dirt will fall into the opening.
- By all means take the hood off and remove the
radiator and take the engine/trans out over the front of the car. I
saw a photo somewhere of a Spider engine and trans poised over the car
with the hood on like it was ready to go back in - I don't know if it
can be done with the hood on - but IMHO hoods and radiators are too
valuable to risk being "bumped" with an engine.
- Also, I have learned the hard way - make sure that
the car and engine hoist (assuming hoist has wheels) is on level
ground - even a slight slope can result in accidental
"bumps" or "rubs" with the engine and
transmission.
- You will encounter interference with the drag link
(that rod between the steering and the idler arms).
- The front of the bell housing will catch on the tie
rod if it is not moved. Get a proper Alfa tie rod end removal tool
(borrow one or buy one from Highwood Motors - they are fantastic) and
pop one tie rod end out and swing the rod down and out of the way -
this takes only a few seconds with the correct tool and it won't mess
up the tie rod end. This will not screw up your alignment - I usually
undo drivers side - easier to get at in my cars.
- I have also discovered it is much easier to remove
transmission with engine if you leave the flex donut on the driveshaft.
Remove the front section (mark front and rear) of the driveshaft with
the donut - don't forget to use a big hose clamp to compress donut so
it "slips" off the studs. If you leave the donut on the
transmission it really hangs up in the tunnel and sheet metal can
damage donut. Put the nuts back on the ends of the three studs on the
transmission yoke to avoid messing up threads if they contact tunnel
on the way out.
- IMHO leaving the donut on the trans and trying to
line up the driveshaft and trans when reinstalling engine/trans is
very difficult and dangerous - you should reinstall engine/trans,
install flex donut/front driveshaft assembly on trans, then connect
front driveshaft to rear.
- Be careful as the engine comes forward the oil pan
will have a tendency to hang up on the sway bar - keep an eye on this
- you can lift the whole car very easily by pulling up when oil pan is
caught on sway bar - this would be a very dangerous situation if it
suddenly let go.
- I find it helpful to use a small rolling floor jack
under the transmission to guide the engine forward and to maintain a
good removal angle.
- Hmm - maybe a still better technique would be to
just unbolt the idler from the frame - anyone tried this?
- Yes, not for engine removal though - there is not
enough give/flex in the tie rods to clear the bell housing - I did
this once to check idler box motion (unless you turned both wheels
outwards as far as they would go - still not sure you would have
enough clearance) - remember the shorter (right) outer tierod is also
connected to the idler.
Oh, and don't forget the ground strap!
There are a couple other things that are easy to forget - like
clutch slave hose, fuel line(s), temp. sender wires. Good luck!
If you have any comments, please send an E-mail
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