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Enter your current values in the left boxes. Then enter your own options in the boxes to the right. Finally,
click on the "Calculate" button an that's it. You will get the new values instantly.
If your values are totally out of hand, it might be nessecary to get a new final ratio.
That is the hard way to change wheels. Use my calculator and check first, much easier and no greasy hands.
Enter your current tire size :
/ - R
Enter tire size :
/ - R
Enter your current speedometer reading: KM/H or MPH
True or happy reading?
When your speedometer indicates KM/H or MPH, you would be cruising at KM/H or MPH.
There are also some other car manufacturers that have steel rims and
wheels that will fit your 105 Alfa Romeo. It's all here.
In order to check the tachometer, use an electronic one to confirm the
discrepancy. Electronic tachos are inexpensive and easy to install. I use
one in the engine bay when I tune the engine.
The final ratio and engine
revs, Giulia 105-series.
The Roundtail spiders have different final ratios like any other Alfa
Romeo. Check the table to find out your speed at 2.000 revs and then you
may have to adjust your instrument. The figures are approx. naturally,
so use your common sense. The tires have some influence too on the speed.
The table shows the speed in 5th gear with the standard wheels. However,
this does not effect the relationship between the engine revs and the speed.
Model
Final ratio
Final ratio, metric
Approx. kph at 2.000 revs
and 5th gear
Approx. mph at 2.000 revs
and 5th gear
Duetto
and 1600 GT
9 / 41
4,55
66 kph
41 Mph
1750 Spider Veloce
and GTV
10 / 41
4,10
70 kph
44 Mph
1300 Spider
and GT Junior
9 / 41
4,55
59 kph
37 Mph
2000 Spider
and GTV
10 / 41
4,10
70 kph
44 Mph
1750 and
2000 Berlina
10 / 43
4,30
68 kph
43 Mph
Assuming your tacho is reading correct, just cruse along at 2.000 revs
in 5th gear and see if you need to increase or decrease the speedometer.
When you have verified the discrepancy, go back to you garage and remove
your speedo. There are two nuts to undo at the back of the instrument before
you take the whole unit out from the dash.
This is how I do it. The procedure is for the Jaeger instruments,
common on AR Spiders. I have however not tried this on Veglia Borlettis,
but I assume that they are much alike. Then just cool down and turn on
some good music like Duane Eddy or Jerry Lee Lewis.
Ready?
Take a thin bladed knife and carefully press around the rear where
the ring is crimped to seal. An ordinary screw driver will do too. Do not
press too hard, 'cuz you do not want to stress the glass and crack it,
oh no.
Once the ring is pried far enough all around, the ring and glass will
come off. Here's a photo of a dismantled
speedo.
Now comes the tricky part. Use a small screwdriver and undo the screw
holding the reset cable. This goes for the old Jaeger speedometer,
used on Duettos and early 1750 Veloces, pre 1968. Use some detergent if
the screw is stuck. On later Jaeger speedos there is no screw, they made
some improvements. If you pull your reset knob, you have a screw, if you
press you have the "modern" type without. Good.
You need to remove the reset cable arrangement, otherwise you won't
get access to adjust the mechanism.
Time to get the mechanism out. Remove the two screws supporting the
mechanism to the case and remove the unit. Be careful and work with
clean hands so you don't end up with fingerprints for the F.B.I. all
over the gauge. It is amazing how the sun makes every spot so visible.
Go out in the kitchen, yes, in the kitchen, and borrow a suitable electric
whisk. I got my hands on one with two beaters, one of them was reversing.
You may also use any electric motor as long as it has constant revs and
is reversing.
Attach a flexible cable or hose between the motor and the speedo cable
connection.
Place the speedo in a vice grip or have your 'spouse to hold it firm
and start the motor. Check the speed at the certain rev and remember it.
Now, time to calibrate. There is a screw, red dot, to the left
of the reset-cable connection. If you turn it clock-wise, speed increases
and anti-clockwise the speed will decrease. This is how it works:
The crimping of the bearing supports the tachometer (rev counter) needle.
This adjusts the distance of the aluminium disk from the spinning magnet
and hence the force by the eddy current.
As the bearing wears (or slips on the shaft), the distance decreases,
more torque, higher reading.
When the distance increases, less torque, lower reading
Start your electrical whisk at the same revs and check the speed. Then
re-adjust the screw until you're satisfied. My first Jaeger started reading
55 kph and after two turns on the screw it was reading 40 kph. The second
Jaeger started at 50 kph and needed one turn to drop to 40 kph, so you
may need to do it by trial-and-error.
Since I had my instruments apart, I drilled a hole in the case to get
easier access to the adjusting screw. Do not use the drill unless the instrument
is dismantled.
Reassembly is the reverse of removal.
Now it's time to put the speed back again. Do not waist your time at
this stage, just connect the cable to the instrument, start the engine
and make a test drive. If everything is OK, then connect the wiring etc.
and tighten the nuts. If the reading is still inaccurate, do it all over
again.
It was not that complicated,
eh?
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